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Are you searching for details about Installing A Bathtub?

Installing a bath tub isn't exactly brain surgery, however it does require strong plumbing, carpentry, and often, tiling skills. Changing an old tub with a brand-new one is likewise a moderately hard job. If the old bathtub is easily available, the task can move speedily; if you have to open up a wall to get rid of the old tub and also position the brand-new tub, the job is much harder. In either instance, the project is within a house handyman's skills, although you will certainly need an assistant to move out the old tub and also embeded in the new one. See to it you have qualified yourself for the work as well as fit attempting it. Instead of working with a professional to take control of a halfway-completed job, it is far better to consider using one before you begin. Possibilities are you might need an expert plumber to make tube connections.
This short article will certainly help you set up a new tub in your shower room if you have actually currently gotten a brand-new bathtub and also do not require to change the arrangement of your previous supply of water pipes.
Your devices and material list need to comprise the following:

• New Tub


• Hammer


• Pipeline Wrenches


• Prybar


• Shatterproof glass


• Degree


• Pliers


• Adjustable Wrench


• Putty Knife


• Screwdriver


• Cold Blade


• Tape Measure


• Pipe Caps


 

Removing Old Taps

If you require to change old taps with brand-new ones as a part of your installment, then the first thing you should do is disconnect the supply of water. After doing so, switch on the faucets to drain pipes any water continuing to be in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be rather troublesome as a result of the limited accessibility that is often the case.
Use a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap device to undo the nut that attaches the supply pipes to the faucets. Have a towel ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been eliminated, utilize the same tool to loosen the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will certainly require to quit the solitary faucets from transforming throughout this process. When the taps have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will certainly need to be cleaned up of any type of old sealing compound.
Before moving on to fit the new faucets, contrast the pipeline links on the old taps to the brand-new faucets. If the old faucets are longer than the brand-new faucets, then a shank adapter is required for the new taps to fit.

Fitting New Touches

If the tails of the brand-new faucets are plastic, then you will require a plastic port to prevent damages to the string. One end of the port fits on the plastic tail of the tap and the other end gives a link to the existing supply pipes.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will call for minimizing couplers, which links the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the typical 15mm supply pipeline.
Next, place the tap in the mounting opening in the bath/basin ensuring that the washing machines are in location between the faucet and the sink. Protect the tap in position with the maker provided backnut. When the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be attached by using corrugated copper piping or with normal faucet connectors. The previous type needs to be linked to the faucet ends initially, tightening up only by hand. The supply pipes can later on be linked to the various other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have actually been connected.

Mounting the Bathtub

Making use of the two wood boards under its feet, place the tub in the needed position. The wooden boards are helpful in uniformly spreading the weight of the tub over the location of the boards instead of concentrating all the weight onto four little factors.
The next objective is to make sure that the tub is leveled all round. This can be attained by inspecting the level as well as adjusting the feet on the tub till the spirit level reviews level.
To mount taps, fit all-time low of the furthest flexible tap adapter to the proper supply pipeline by making a compression join; after that do the same for the various other tap.
Turn on the water and also inspect all joints and also new pipework for leakages and tighten them if needed. Load the tub as well as additionally check the overflow electrical outlet and the typical electrical outlet for leaks.
Lastly, deal with the bathroom paneling as described in the producer's user's manual. Tiling and sealing around the tub must wait till the bathtub has been utilized a minimum of when as this will certainly settle it right into its last position.

Preparing for the Setup

To start with, the supporting structure supplied with the bath ought to be fitted (if called for) according to the manufacturer's instructions. Next, fit the faucets or mixer to the bath tub. When suitable the tap block, it is important to ensure that if the tap comes with a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom and the faucets. On a plastic bathroom, it is also sensible to fit a supporting plate under the taps system to avoid stress on the bath tub.
Fit the adaptable faucet adapters to the bottom of both faucets using 2 nuts and olives (in some cases provided with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink outlet hole, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bathroom. Utilize the nut supplied by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Take a look at the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit the end of the versatile overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which ought to be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use every one of the provided washing machines.
Attach the catch to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bath tub by winding the string of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, as well as screw on the trap to the outlet. Connect all-time low of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bath should currently prepare to be suited its last setting.

Tiling Around the Bathtub

In the location where the bathroom satisfies the ceramic tile, it is needed to seal the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the installation can move enough to fracture an inflexible seal, creating the water to penetrate the wall surface in between the bathroom and the tiling, leading to complications with wetness and also possible leaks to the ceiling below.
You can pick from a range of coloured sealants to blend in your fixtures and also installations. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and also can securing gaps as much as a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to fill, you can fill it with spins of soaked paper or soft rope. Keep in mind to always load the bathtub with water before securing, to enable the movement experienced when the bathtub is in usage. The sealant can fracture relatively very early if you do not take into consideration this movement prior to sealing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant tiles can be used to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also cut to dimension, are additionally easily readily available on the market. It is a good idea to fit the ceramic tiles making use of water-resistant or water-proof sticky and also cement.

How to Install or Replace a Bathtub

Find Your Dimensions

The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.

 

After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?

Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly

Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.

 

Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.

 

Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.

Cut Out the Old Tub

After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.

 

Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.

 

Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.

Install the New Tub

Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.

 

Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.

 

Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.

 

When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.

Secure the Tub

After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.

 

Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.

 

Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.

 

Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.

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